Strawberry Plugs: How to plant and grow strawberry plugs

Strawberries are becoming one of my favorite plants. I can not think of any other plant that you can plant in the Fall and begin harvesting fresh berries the following Spring.  Most fruit plants and trees have to grow for several years to either reach maturity or they must be trellised and trained to establish the framework necessary for fruit production.

With our strawberry plugs, you simply plant in October and the arrival of fresh, sweet berries begin the following spring. Now that I hopefully have your attention, I would like to go over the details of successfully planting strawberry plugs and the care they require.

First we need to choose a location:
It needs to get plenty of sunshine and is weed free.  Strawberry plants will grow well in many different soil types; we recommend that the soil has good drainage. If the soil does not drain well then the plants should be planted on raised beds. Strawberries also like organic matter (manure, compost, or peat moss) that has a ph in the 6.5 range. We recommend at least 5% of the soil be composted with peat moss or compost. Once the location is prepared, you are ready to start planting your strawberry plugs.  Space your plugs 12-18 inches apart in the row; optimal row spacing is 3-4 ft.  Set the plants in the row with the root ball facing straight down. The middle of the crown should be level with the soil line. Soil should be well watered after planting to set the plants in the ground but try not to water the plugs directly. After the soil has been watered properly the soil line should be level with the bottom of the crown on the plant.

Second maintain good weed control:
The easiest method to control weeds is called plasticulture. Place black plastic over the raised beds and plant the strawberry plugs through holes punched in the top of the plastic. This will improve weed control from growing around your strawberry plants, help conserver soil moisture, and keep the fruit clean. You may also choose to cultivate around your plants, keeping them free of weeds and this method would not require the use of plastic

The third step is fertilization:
Fertilizer is used to maintain soil fertility and maximize plant growth and fruit production. We recommend using 1/2 lb of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet to be worked into the soil prior to planting your plugs. We also offer a specialized water soluable strawberry fertilizer.

The fourth and final step is mulching:
Strawberries are perennial plants that must survive the weather conditions throughout the winter to survive. Mulching strawberry plants help prevent quick freezing and thawing which can affect plant survival. Mulch maintains a large volume of dead air spaces, which help insulate the plants through cooler temperatures. The best mulching materials to use are wheat straw or hay. You should mulch the plants in mid to late November when the plants have started to go dormant. We need to obtain a 2 inch layer to provide adequate protection; the mulch should stay on the plants until the tops of the crowns put out new growth in the Spring.



Advantages of planting Strawberry Plugs

• Plugs do not have to be planted immediately; they can be kept in the trays until you are ready to plant
• Average loss rate of plugs is 1 to 2% compared to 15-20% for bare root plants
• Plugs have an intact root ball so they are easier to plant
• Plugs establish more quickly minimizing transplant shock
• Best of all, you plant in the fall and harvest in the spring



Happy Strawberry Planting!

Greg Ison

Order Strawberry Plugs Now for October Delivery





Strawberry plugs have 50 per tray.



Fall Muscadine Maintenance

Muscadine vines are just about to finish the harvest for the season, but the work for the season is not over yet. There is still maintenance to be done until the vines go completely dormant. Hopefully following these tips will ensure a productive harvest for 2012.

1. This time of year the vines are exhausted from ripening the season's harvest, in years past the accepted watering schedule for vines in the fall was to stop irrigating once the harvest was over. The mind set was to stop watering so the vines would harden off and be prepared for winter. In my opinion this is one of the most harmful things a grower can do. After harvest we want to keep as much stress off the vines as possible, if the weather is warm and dry and we stop irrigating we are putting stress on a vine that has been under pressure from the ripening of the fruit. During the months of October and November we recommend continuing to irrigate at a rate of 8 to 10 gallons of water per week if the weather conditions are warm and dry. If we are getting adequate rainfall then irrigation is not necessary. Once the vines have dropped their leaves then irrigation should not be resumed until the spring of 2012.

2. Removal of fruit.
Any fruit left hanging on the vine that will not be harvested should be removed.  If left on the vine the fruit will rot or mummify (become raisin like) on the vine. This rotting fruit can lead to a build up of disease over the winter and will be present in the spring. If you do not remove the fruit you will have much more disease pressure such as ripe rot or macrophema rot that can affect next years harvest.

Many vines will also have what are called "shot berries", these are grapes that get about as big as a dime and are green and will not ripen on the vine. They are the product of the vine either trying to set a second crop or late blooms being pollinated but do not have enough time allowed for the ripening of the fruit. Any green or shot berries should also be removed this time of year.

3. This is a great time of year to apply pre-emergent herbicides if you choose. Simazine can be used this time of year for control of annual broadleaf weeds and some annual grasses. By applying a fall pre-emergent herbicide it will lower the amount of weeds the following spring. Always follow labeling instructions prior to application.

4. Do not prune too early.  For years we pruned our vines beginning after the Thanksgiving Holiday. But through trial, error and experience we have found the best time to prune muscadine vines is from mid January to mid March. We have found that a vine that has not been pruned can handle colder temperatures or big swing in temperatures better than a vine that has been pruned. In general we experience our coldest temperatures from late December-January, by pruning later we are giving our plants a better chance of coming through the winter with little or no cold weather damage.

5. If you are using the blue x plant shelters and your vines have reached the top wire, now is the ideal time to remove the shelters.

On a planting report we have a beautiful crop of muscadine vines this year, so if you are thinking about adding a few vines or considering planting some acreage now is a good time to begin getting your orders in.  Take advantage of the Early Bird Discount by ordering before November 15th.  The all new 2012 Catalog will be available later today on our website - check it out or request one to be mailed to you.

I hope these tips will ensure an abundant crop for 2012.

Happy Planting!

 Greg Ison
http://www.isons.com/

Fall Into Planning Your

Fruit Trees and Berry Plants  

Fall is my favorite time of year.  Mainly because I am a muscadine man (always have been) and September is the prime month of harvest of my beloved grape. They say Christmas only comes around once a year and the same can be said of muscadines, there is nothing I look more forward to than eating the first grape of the season and the saddest is eating the last one for the harvest season. Fall is also another time of year where the persimmons, apples, jujubes, pears, and pomegranates grace our presence with their arrival.. The coolness of the mornings, the gradual leaf color change, and the sound of college campuses fill the air with the arrival of Fall

Fall is also an ideal time to begin the planning of your next yard or orchard project.  The location is the first thing to consider. Remember that most fruit trees and plants thrive in areas that receive full sun. If you do not have an area that gets full sun you can still plant just try to find an area that gets as much sun as possible and preferably the morning and mid afternoon sun. The plants and trees will still bring fruit, it may just not be as abundantly as a full sun location                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

The second planning step is to check your soil ph. Most fruit plants and trees like a ph in the 6.0-6.8 range except for blueberry bushes which like a more alkaline soil with a ph range from 4.5-5.2. You can readily test your soil with a soil kit or more accurately take a sample to your county extension sevice for a complete analysis.  The most important thing to consider is that it takes 3-4 months to begin raising or lowering your ph, however you may go ahead and plant you just want to make sure the ph level is correct by the time the plant or tree reaches fruit bearing age.  

                                                                   

The third planning step is to amend the soil if necessary. Soil ranges anywhere from a hard clay to a sandy soil which should be amended prior to planting, We offer the soil perfector soil amendment that permanently improves the soil, promotes deep roots, and improves heavy clay soils and dry sandy soils by adding aeration and moisture retention. If your soil is in good shape simple adding some potting mix or peat moss in the planting hole should work sufficiently.                                                          

The fourth step and most important is the hole preparation. My father use to tell me not to be a ten dollar tree in a ten cent hole. Of course with inflation prices have gone up but the saying holds true. The hole is the foundation for that plant the rest of its life, and getting the plant off to a good healthy start begins with the shovel.                                                                                                                                                                                    

I hope that these planning steps get you excited for the upcoming planting season. With the fall and winter ahead of us it gives us the opportunity for a new planting with the anticipation of bud break and spring blooms to follow. As always if you need any assistance choosing the perfect plant for your location give us a call we will be happy to assist with all of your planting needs.

Happy Planting                                                      
Greg Ison