Anyone can grow fruit!

Emma & Evan Ison digging for potatoes

Tamara and I give our friends fruit plants from time to time. We have given olive trees, pomegranates, and blueberry bushes as gifts. My father-in-law is a man who if he wants something will go out and buy it. For his birthday or Christmas we always struggle to find the perfect gift. Over the last couple of years we have hit home runs in being able to give him things he will enjoy and look forward to. The first home run was a customer of ours brought us some homemade moonshine (if you are an ATF agent reading this the evidence has disappeared). When I gave him the mason jar he whirled it around to check for the beads. The more beads the better the moonshine. He smiled and said there are two kinds of moonshine: "the selling kind and the drinking kind, and this is the drinking kind." The next home run was a wonderful pomegranate bush. He was excited about receiving the bush and even more excited when he planted it; he had a couple of pomegranates on the tree the first year. He by no means is an avid gardener or has farmed much his whole life, but with a good hole and a good plant he is a pro.

Now my mother-in-law (Duane Lane Smith) is a gardener's gardener. We have given her blackberry plants, bunch grapes, and a fruit salad tree.  She grows tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, and just about everything else in her garden. Our children, Evan and Emma, went to Nana's house recently on a school break. Emma loves whole potatoes. However, when Nana went to dig some fresh potatoes to cook, Emma said she would not eat them because they were dirty. I think if Nana had a bigger yard she could feed everyone in Milledgeville.

We have friends that we have given olive trees to. He is a lawyer and his wife is a school teacher/stay-at-home mom. Their yard is full of the usual azaleas, roses, nandinas, etc., but in the corner next to their children's play set is an Arbequina Olive and an Arbosana Olive tree. About once a month he will text a couple of pictures of the trees with olives on them and say "they are getting bigger." They by no means are master gardener's or have years of experience, but with a good hole and a good plant they are an olive growing machine.

We also have friends we gave blueberry bushes to. Their yard in the spring is the envy of all that pass by because their yard is full of beautiful white dogwoods. It is an amazing show of white blooms and entices me to plant some in my own yard.  I gave them three blueberry bushes that already had fruit on them. He is very precise and waited until he found the perfect place in his yard. He is an outside kind of guy and his wife works in the finance industry. While they by no means are horticulturists, I love to hear the excitement in their voices when they tell me about the fruit they have just eaten or how well their plants are doing.

Each year we give some of our friends a bag of fresh muscadines. She is always so excited when she eats them (who can blame her).  A bag of muscadines is such a simple gift but she loves them.  I think my next plant gift may be some muscadine vines for her and her husband to enjoy. They both are in the medical field, but any given Saturday you can find her husband working outside cutting grass or pulling weeds.

So what is the message behind this blog?  The message is no matter how big or small your yard is, no matter what type of plants you have in your landscape, no matter if you do not know what a shovel is or your hands have never been in the dirt...You my friend can grow fruiting plants.

What are you waiting for? Give us a call!

Happy Planting,
Greg Ison

Emma Ison
4th Generation

The Easiest Fruiting Plants To Grow In Your Home Garden

When it comes to growing fruiting plants many gardeners can be either intimidated or out of their comfort zone. The biggest challenge for the home gardener usually comes down to pruning and summer maintenance of fruiting plants. I have compiled a list of cultivars that I believe are the easiest for the home Gardener in terms of pruning, spraying, and low maintenance.

Blueberries:  
Blueberries are one of the lowest maintenance plants a home gardener can add to their landscape. Blueberry plants have little to no disease or insect issues. They will grow to a height of 8-10 ft tall with a 3-4 ft spread. The home gardener can hedge the plants back to control the height if desired. Plant spacing should be 4-6 ft apart, in full sun with  well drained soil. Blueberry plants like a pH in the 4.5 range. If your pH needs to be corrected you can add peat moss in the hole when planting your blueberries then mulch with pine straw. In the summer the plants are graced with plump, juicy, fruit and the fall will add striking color to your landscape. They can be planted as a hedge or grouped in an island similar to the way azaleas and roses are. Blueberry plants are partially self fertile but will produce more fruit when planted with another variety. Pruning simply involves a light hedging in mid winter, and removing any interior branches that are crossing one another.

Figs: 
Figs are a traditional southern fruit that is easy to grow.Fig trees (bushes) have little to no disease or insect issues. Fig trees can grow as tall as 10-12 ft tall with a 10-12 ft spread. The home gardener can control the height by cutting the tops out of the tree which will lead to more lateral branching. Figs are tolerant of most soil types but grow best in a deep clay loam soil. Figs like a pH in the 6's and a heavy layer of mulch. Figs produce best with little or no pruning, however branch thinning is recommended to prevent the accumulation of dense unproductive twig growth. Figs ripen in late summer/early fall and are a beautiful addition to your landscape. Figs are self fruitful.


Pomegranates:

Pomegranates are steeped in history and are one of my favorite fall fruits. Pomegranate trees have little to no disease or insect issues.  They grow to a height of 8-10 ft tall with a spread of about 6 ft. The home gardener can control the height of the tree and the spread by hedging back mid summer and again in the winter months. Pomegranates prefer a more alkaline soil and will grow best in amended soils using a soil conditioner or peat moss. In the early years of planting we recommend pruning the bush to 1/2 of its original height the first 2 winters to promote a strong framework and discourage straggly branches. After the first couple of years the only pruning required will be the removal of low branching and the removal of dead branches. Pomegranates are self fruitful.

Olives:
Olives are one of the oldest cultivated fruits and steeped in history. There are little or no disease or insect issues on the plant. They will grow to a height over 20 ft but most are kept pruned to a height of 8 to 10 ft. They can grow in any light soil, including clay if well drained. Olive trees prefer a hot summer and a milder winter, if the winter temperatures drop below 14 degrees Fahrenheit the tree may incur some winter injury. Olive trees are drought tolerant and can live and produce olives for decades if properly pruned. Olives ripen in the fall and early winter. The fruit must be cured before consumption.


Persimmons:

Persimmon trees were first introduced into the United States in the 19th Century. There are little or no disease or insect issues on the plant.  They will grow to a height of 12-15 ft tall with a spread of 6-8 ft. The home gardener can control the height and spread of the tree by pruning mid summer and again in the winter months. Persimmons prefer a soil pH of 6.0-6.5, well drained and fertile. They can tolerate many different soil types but need it well drained and in full sun. As the tree matures, any branches that cross over one another should be removed allowing adequate sunlight and air penetration through the canopy. Persimmon trees live a very long time and make a nice landscape tree. Their beautiful fall color and decorative fruit make a nice addition to any landscape.

Muscadines:

Muscadines are a native plant to the southeast and have little or no disease/insect issues. They love our heat and humidity. Muscadines prefer a pH in the 6's, and like a well drained soil in full sun . Muscadines do require a wire trellis or an arbor to grow up and down on. The first year there is simple pruning involved to direct the growth up and down the wire. Once the framework is established, a winter pruning is necessary to ensure proper fruit set. Muscadines ripen late summer and early fall. The aroma is sure to attract anyone to their location in the garden. An arbor makes a stunning display in any landscape.


Blackberries:
Blackberries  can be easily grown and require very little space in the garden. They have few disease or insect issues on the plants. Blackberries are tolerant to a wide variety of soil types, they prefer well drained, sandy loam, and a pH in the 6's. Blackberries produce their crop on the last seasons growth. Once the cane has produced and begins dying back, the cane should be removed and discarded to help reduce disease pressure. Once the old woody canes have been removed, only the vigorous new growth will be remaining. Once the new growth reaches 48-60 inches in height, the canes should be tipped to encourage branching. Plant spacing should be 3-4 ft apart, and average yield would be 1-2 gallons per plant. Delicious.


Jujube's:

Jujube's are commonly called the Chinese date.  It is an exotic fruit that grows well in most areas of the South. They have little or no disease or insect issues. Jujubes are a nice landscape fruit however most varieties have a few thorns on the tree. Jujubes are adapted to a wide range of soil types and prefer a pH in the 6's. When eaten fresh the jujube is like a sweet, dry apple. The fruit is about the size of a date and are best eaten when the fruit is half green. Jujubes ripen in the fall.


In my opinion these are the best options for growers who want to grow fruit organically and have little disease or insect issues. All of these selections will add beauty and interest to any garden and will only require minimal maintenance. We hope you have room in your landscape to add one of these great cultivars to your garden.

Plants and trees are going into dormancy and we are fast approaching our shipping season. We have a great inventory this year and the plants are beautiful!   There is still time to take advantage of the Early Bird Discount when ordering.  Browse Now

Keep Growing,
Greg Ison
ison@isons.com 

I did not know I was so green

We have all either noticed or taken part in the new green movement. We all know the importance recycling, we now take our own shopping bags to the grocery store, we are fuel conscious by buying hybrid or electric cars, and email has taken the place of letters. But are we as green as we should be with our most important commodity.  Water is essential in our daily lives. From the showers we take, to brushing our teeth, to washing clothes, the food we cook, to quinch our thirst, and to water our plants. I have always taken the approach that someone else would do my share and that one single person can not or could not make a difference. Water is the life line of a farm or plant nursery. We have to have it, the plants have to have it, and we would not be in business without it.

One of the ways we are "green" is the use of our drip irrigation systems. Drip irrigation is a low flow, low pressure watering system that drips water right to the root zone of our plants. When we water with a hose or overhead sprinklers we are wasting water either by runoff or watering weeds or other undesired plants. Drip irrigation can provide optimum moisture levels in the soil at all times, resulting in less water lost to the sun and wind. With drip irrigation, water is not wasted on non growth areas, and the root zone  is maintained at a steady moisture level.

Drip irrigation is simple and inexpensive to use. If you can connect a garden hose to a water faucet then you can install a drip system. We have fittings that will adapt to a garden hose or faucet, from there you will run the tubing on the ground by the plants you wish to water, and lastly punch a hole into the tubing and place an emmitter near the root zone. Simply turn on the water supply and  you will have water going to the root zone of your plants without the waste of time nor water.

We recommend using drip on new or established planting to ensure healthy plants, larger fruit, increased yields, and earlier production.

Over the last year we have planted additional acreage in peaches, blueberries, blackberries, and muscadines.We had to plant the majority of the acreage during the hot months of June and July, our nursery schedule does not allow planting at other times. Because of the use of drip we were able to successfully plant with little or no plant loss.

Yesterday before I left work I turned on a single valve and was able to water 2 acres of peaches, 1 acre of blueberry, and  a 1/2 acre of blackberries with our drip system. Not only was I being green with the conservation of water, I was able to get home and enjoy time with the ones who mean the most to me. I think I may wear a green shirt to work tomorrow.

Save money and lower your water usage.
Give us a call with any drip irrigation questions.  We will be happy to assist in the layout of your drip system.

Greg Ison

 Isons drip irrigation by Jain

Drip Irrigation

Advantages and Benefits of Drip Irrigation System

·   Water Efficiency

·   Water only goes where needed

·   Ease of Installation

·   No special tools or glue required

·   Reduced pest problems and weed growth

·   Only water the roots plus increase fruit yield and plant quality

·   Works anywhere in the home garden

·   Save money and lower your water usage

Do your plants have gas in their tanks ?

isons.com

Do you make sure your gas tank is not on "E" before you make a trip to work, shopping, or vacation? One of the first things I do when I get into my vehicle is to make sure I have enough gas to get where I need to go. Fuel is what keeps us going on the road, if we run out of fuel we are going to be stuck.

Plants and trees are the same way, if they do not have adequate fertilizer releasing to their root zones the growth is going to get stuck and the plant is not going to grow to its potential.

Customers tell me all the time that they were told not to fertilize the first year or that they just did not realize that it was necessary. I have never understood the logic of  "do not fertilize the first year so the plants can get established" to me it is a huge mistake not to encourage as much growth the first year as possible.

The first year of planting we want to encourage as much vegetative growth as possible to establish the framework or the branching of the plant.

• On fruit trees if we can encourage 6-7 feet of growth it allows us to choose the branches we wish to keep, develop the scaffold of the tree, and be that much closer to production.
• On grapes it allows us to have the vine reach the top of the wire and extend down the wire and be that much closer to production.
• On berries it allows us to push the primocanes and to be that much closer to production. The first year we can be the most aggressive because the plants are not of fruit bearing age, so all of the nutrients the plants receive will go strictly to the growth of the plant.

Recommended Fertilizer Schedule on Young Plants and Trees

Fruit Trees:
     1 lb 10-10-10 April 1st,  1 cup calcium nitrate June 1st,  1 lb 10-10-10 July 15th

Raspberry and Blackberries:
     1/4 lb 10-10-10 April 1st,  1/4 calcium nitrate June 1st, 1/4 10-10-10 July 15th

Blueberries:
     1/4 10-10-10 April 1st, June 1st, and August 1st

Muscadines and bunch grapes:
     1/4 lb 12-10-10 or 10-10-10 April 1st, May 1st, June 1st, and July 1st
     1/4 lb Calcium Nitrate April 15, May 15th, June 15th, and July 15th

Follow these recommended guide lines to ensure your plants get where they need to go.

Greg Ison

Fall Into Planning Your

Fruit Trees and Berry Plants  

Fall is my favorite time of year.  Mainly because I am a muscadine man (always have been) and September is the prime month of harvest of my beloved grape. They say Christmas only comes around once a year and the same can be said of muscadines, there is nothing I look more forward to than eating the first grape of the season and the saddest is eating the last one for the harvest season. Fall is also another time of year where the persimmons, apples, jujubes, pears, and pomegranates grace our presence with their arrival.. The coolness of the mornings, the gradual leaf color change, and the sound of college campuses fill the air with the arrival of Fall

Fall is also an ideal time to begin the planning of your next yard or orchard project.  The location is the first thing to consider. Remember that most fruit trees and plants thrive in areas that receive full sun. If you do not have an area that gets full sun you can still plant just try to find an area that gets as much sun as possible and preferably the morning and mid afternoon sun. The plants and trees will still bring fruit, it may just not be as abundantly as a full sun location                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

The second planning step is to check your soil ph. Most fruit plants and trees like a ph in the 6.0-6.8 range except for blueberry bushes which like a more alkaline soil with a ph range from 4.5-5.2. You can readily test your soil with a soil kit or more accurately take a sample to your county extension sevice for a complete analysis.  The most important thing to consider is that it takes 3-4 months to begin raising or lowering your ph, however you may go ahead and plant you just want to make sure the ph level is correct by the time the plant or tree reaches fruit bearing age.  

                                                                   

The third planning step is to amend the soil if necessary. Soil ranges anywhere from a hard clay to a sandy soil which should be amended prior to planting, We offer the soil perfector soil amendment that permanently improves the soil, promotes deep roots, and improves heavy clay soils and dry sandy soils by adding aeration and moisture retention. If your soil is in good shape simple adding some potting mix or peat moss in the planting hole should work sufficiently.                                                          

The fourth step and most important is the hole preparation. My father use to tell me not to be a ten dollar tree in a ten cent hole. Of course with inflation prices have gone up but the saying holds true. The hole is the foundation for that plant the rest of its life, and getting the plant off to a good healthy start begins with the shovel.                                                                                                                                                                                    

I hope that these planning steps get you excited for the upcoming planting season. With the fall and winter ahead of us it gives us the opportunity for a new planting with the anticipation of bud break and spring blooms to follow. As always if you need any assistance choosing the perfect plant for your location give us a call we will be happy to assist with all of your planting needs.

Happy Planting                                                      
Greg Ison